I have been shooting with my Canon camera set to RAW and JPG. Once you get the hang of this syncing action, you'll never consider hand-editing every single image.
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Lightroom is the best tool for efficient RAW editing where you can mass-edit your images, syncing the adjustments from one image across a series of similar images. Many people don't want to edit each and every image, as is needed from RAW. The shadows also have less flexibility, for a few reasons, including the data has been compressed to an 8-bit format in a smaller overall colorspace. The WB has some flexibility, but not as much as a RAW. Therefore, it becomes more important to get the JPEG as close to the end result coming out of the camera as possible. You're just limited with how far you can push them in editing. I have noticed that the jpg's were not as "up to par" as I thought. I wasn't on UHH at that time so this is helpful.
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More than I bargained for looking back at your ETTR posts from 2013. Trying to be both from the same camera at the same time is to be less than your best at either.ĮTTR in Practice IIIn the ideal world, which you just happen to have. Instead, get a RAW-specific culling tool like the modestly priced $29 Fast Raw Viewer (FRV).īeing a successful JPEG shooter is a different shooting technique than a successful RAW shooter. Using the JPEGs for culling is a waste of time as you have two versions of the same file to delete.
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The ETTR results will tend to over-exposed the JPEGs, making them of little use. In the ideal world, which you just happen to have with your Canon EOS, you want to expose to the right (ETTR) for your RAW capture, maximizing the data captured by the sensor into the RAW file.